In this blog series, we will be chatting with each of the designers to uncover their inspiration for the ISUZU Luxury Collection.
As we get ready to embark on a captivating journey into the world of fashion innovation, we sat down with the visionary mind behind the Black Coffee brand, renowned designer Jacques van der Watt himself. We chatted about the creative process and inspiration behind the extraordinary ensemble he crafted for the ISUZU Luxury Collection for SA Fashion Week SS24.
1. Can you share your inspiration behind the collection created for the ISUZU Luxury Collection at SA Fashion Week SS24?
I was very inspired by the renderings for a proposed futuristic floating city released by a team of international Architects in 2023. In response to climate change, these architects propose humanity take to the high seas and live in sci-fi settings. I am exploring these futuristic principles and how some of these solutions can translate to the garments we wear.
2. How did the collaboration with ISUZU come about, and what drew you to work with them on this particular project?
I am very fortunate to be able to collaborate with ISUZU for the second time, after a successful show in October last year.
3. Could you highlight some key design elements or themes that define the Black Coffee collection for the ISUZU Luxury Collection?
For Black Coffee’s SS’24, I explore pleating in all its forms, creating intricate pieces with a commanding presence.
4. In what ways did the partnership with ISUZU influence your creative process and design choices for this collection?
I used the Japanese origin of ISUZU as a jump-off point. I love exploring the similarities between ancient Japanese and African aesthetics.
5. Can you speak to any challenges you faced during the collaboration and how you overcame them to bring your vision to life?
Time is always my enemy. It’s true for all designers but we always manage to overcome it.
6. How would you describe the overall aesthetic and style of the Black Coffee collection, and how does it align with the ISUZU brand?
The collection is modern and forward-thinking. This aligns perfectly with the ISUZU brand.
7. Were there specific aspects of ISUZU's identity or design philosophy that you aimed to incorporate into the collection?
I like ISUZU’s core value statement and I tried to embody it in the collection: “As individuals we share the drive to challenge, change and contribute. And as a team, we share mutual respect, inspiration and empowerment.”
8. What role did sustainability play in the design process for this collection, if any?
In this collection, I’m thinking practically about new and old, about reinvention and regeneration. Black Coffee’s narrative is a continuum from one season to the next. Objects of clothing can become part of the wearers' collection and built on from year to year. Trend-driven seasonality has been discarded in favour of garments that become collector pieces. Selected pieces are made from “dead stock” fabrics and remnants while some are upcycled.
9. Were there any particular materials or techniques that you found especially exciting or challenging?
Expect van der Watt's signature avant-garde, sculpture-like designs that have defined his work over the past two decades. Pleats are artfully fused to achieve volume, pushing silhouettes to new extremes for the brand.
10. Can you share any memorable moments or highlights from the creative journey of developing this collection?
I spent two weeks making a pleating mould.
11. How do you see the Black Coffee collection contributing to the broader landscape of South African fashion and design?
It’s hard to measure the impact a specific collection has. I try to always bring a new perspective to the South African design narrative. I have been doing this for over two decades and I hope to continue to do so.
12. Are there specific cultural or local influences that you intentionally integrated into the collection to showcase a sense of place or identity?
I always have elements of traditional dress in my designs. My design process is a melting pot of everything I experience.
13. As a designer, what message or emotion do you hope to evoke through the pieces created for the ISUZU Luxury Collection?
This collection is an emotional offering; I imagine different characters for each look to achieve a varied offering while maintaining a strongly defined signature for the season.
14. What’s your favourite ISUZU vehicle and why?
The mu-X, it’s the perfect city car.
15. What's next for Black Coffee, and are there any upcoming projects or collaborations that your fans and followers can look forward to?
For us, it’s always the next season. I put all my energy into bringing the best I can every time.
This enthralling conversation with Jacques left us with a taste of the avant-garde, a glimpse into the meticulous process of preparation, and a profound understanding of Black Coffee's commitment to sustainability and reinvention.
Join ISUZU at SA Fashion Week SS24 on Friday, 19 April 2024 at Mall of Africa. Show starts at 19:00.
